Article# 2 - Hide from a Hurricane in the Sea of Cortez Like many of us, I was introduced to the writings of John Steinbeck during my teens. “Cannery Row,” “East of Eden,” “Of Mice and Men” and “Grapes of Wrath” were required reading when I was in high school. I was particularly inspired by one of Steinbeck’s lesser-known novels, “The Log from the Sea of Cortez,” published in 1941. In it, he details his six-week exploration of the Sea of Cortez (also known as the Gulf of California) while traveling aboard a chartered sardine purse seiner in the spring of 1940. The purpose of Steinbeck’s expedition was to collect marine invertebrates. Steinbeck was accompanied by his great friend, marine biologist Ed Rickett, on whom he modeled the character of “Doc” in his 1945-published masterpiece “Cannery Row.” “The Log from the Sea of Cortez” has long been out of print. Written as a day-to-day journal, it combines marine biology, philosophy and tales of adventure in a mysterious and beautiful region where there still remain many unexplored and difficult-to-access areas. I can’t explain why I kept the book or what continues to attract me to the Sea of Cortez. Over the years, I have done my share of fishing around East Cape, the southeast tip of the Baja California Peninsula. But I had never set aside time to explore the islands and visit remote fishing villages. Early last year, I was presented with the opportunity to spend a week aboard a North Sea-style commercial vessel traveling from Loreto to La Paz. Of course, I grabbed the chance to pursue a long-held dream. Ursa Major Launched at the Malahide shipyard just outside of Dublin, Ireland, in 1972, Ursa Major is a magnificent example of Old World, wooden-hull craftsmanship. With an overall length of 65 feet and a 20-foot beam, the trawler is chartered for summer cruising to Alaskan waters. It begins its journey to Baja California in December and schedules weekly trips between Loreto and La Paz until late March, when it again heads north. It can carry six passengers in comfort for extended periods. Departing From Puerto Escondido (25 48.285N, 111, 18.213W) We were met by the crew of Ursa Major at its moorage in Puerto Escondido. Having arrived on an early morning flight to Loreto, we had spent the day at Magdalena Bay and were dropped off by the tour company on the way back. Puerto Escondido is the only large fueling station en route to La Paz. The harbor consists of two distinct areas, Waiting Room and Inner Harbor, both administered by the port captain in Loreto. The outer harbor (Waiting Room) is a well-sheltered anchorage with a sandy bottom and a depth of 6 fathoms. Upon your arrival, find a suitable anchoring spot and dinghy over to the west side to check in at the port captain’s office. Romulo or his son, Chui, will help you with the details. As always in Mexico, patience is key to the overall enjoyment of your experience. If no one’s in the office, leave a note identifying your vessel and your approximate anchorage location and then monitor channels 16 and 22. You might also consider placing an order for Romulo’s wife’s homemade tamales, which are legendary in the area. Do not proceed into the Inner Harbor without clearance. Eventually, you will be contacted and given directions. Expect to pay a tonnage fee and anchorage tax (currently $18 per ton and $8 to $10 per day, respectively, payable in dollars or pesos). Have small bills ready, since making change can be an issue. Prices increase for an Inner Harbor location. Day 1 (25 48.148N, 111 15.426) After spending the previous evening getting acquainted with the rest of the guests and enjoying the hospitality of the crew, we readied for a mid-morning departure to our first destination, Isla Danzante. During the cruise into the Sea of Cortez and on to Honeymoon Cove, we observed several humpback whales lazily making their way north. Isla Danzante is a narrow, uninhabited island 3 1/2 miles long. Honeymoon Cove is located on the north side of the island and provides the only hospitable anchoring and landing site. It features a gravel bottom and average depths of 6 fathoms. We broke out our kayaks and snorkeling gear, and some took advantage of a number of steep hiking trails that offer plenty of photo opportunities. From the top of the ridge overlooking the cove, you’ll find a wide vista that includes many of the islands that make up the Sea of Cortez Marine Park. Privately owned Isla Carmen to the northeast is clearly visible. It is one of the few sources of naturally flowing water in the region. It is also the site of an abandoned salt mine, which at its zenith was the second-largest in the world. Most salt used for snow removal in the United States is imported from Mexico. Isla Danzante is a popular location, but still well worth visiting. Honeymoon Cove is small, however, so be prepared to head for an alternate destination for overnight anchoring if other vessels are already in place. By late afternoon, we returned to Ursa Major and started what would become a nightly exchange of digital photos from the day’s activities. After enjoying the sunset, we settled in for a calm and starry evening. Day 2 (25 31N, 111 05W) Early the following day, we began to make our way to the fishing village of Agua Verde, population 40. It is located on the Baja Peninsula, 145 kilometers north of La Paz and accessible from Highway 1 via a 41-kilometer, mountainous dirt road strewn with abandoned vehicles. Some electricity is available through government-supplied solar panels and gasoline-powered generators. Water also is a precious commodity; residents collect rainwater via rooftop cisterns and will trade fresh fish for water. Nevertheless, Agua Verde is a popular cruising destination known for its spectacular green water and protected anchorage. We set out under a 3- to 5-foot chop, clear skies and northerly gusts of up to 25 knots. Under the circumstances, it was difficult to spot any marine life except for the bat rays that would sporadically propel themselves high over the waves and disappear quickly, making us question whether we really did see them. Steinbeck noted the bat rays in his journal. Marine scientists speculate that the impact of re-entering the water after a leap allows the bat ray to knock off parasites from its skin. We thought they were just having fun, as when humans make cannonball dives. It is hard to miss Agua Verde. Its northerly approach is punctuated by Roca Solitaria, a 120-foot “finger” that seems to rocket from the sea approximately a half-mile from the most northwestern part of the cove at Punta San Pasquel. There are two equally desirable anchorages, both with sandy bottoms and depths of 4 to 10 fathoms. During the spring, prevailing winds are northerly, with some eastern and western air currents. In a true northerly, these anchorages provide little shelter. The Agua Verde area boasts wonderful snorkeling and diving. We took the dinghy to shore and spoke with some of the locals. The absence of children was conspicuous and we learned that on the weekdays they are boarders at La Paz’s schools. After leaving several bags of candy for the children, we continued touring the area and returned to our still windy but safe anchorage for a relaxing evening and to plan the next day’s adventure. Day 3 (24 54N, 110 42W) As the northerly wind-driven weather continued to deteriorate, we decided to bypass El Gato and continue to Punta San Evaristo. Located approximately 45 nautical miles south of Agua Verde, it features a circular cove about a mile in diameter, providing good shelter from all northerly winds. Southerly approaching storms have occasionally devastated the town, requiring its rebuilding several times. The anchorage bottom is sandy and averages 4 fathoms. The town uses a desalination plant that provides water to encampments and smaller villages in the region. It also has several active salt pans in operation. Harvested brine is used for fish preservation. Punta San Evaristo has its own school because of its inaccessibility from the main highway. The local fishermen were quite friendly and eager to trade fresh fish for water and sodas. We kayaked to shore and talked to several men while they mended their fishing nets. Whenever we encountered locals, their first questions almost always were about weather forecasts. Their livelihoods are subject to the whims of the elements. They lack all modern communication tools such as VHF, weather fax and conventional radio. The region’s remoteness negates most transmission except satellite-based signals. Generation after generation, the fishermen depend on their first-hand experiences to forecast weather, but they’re eager to obtain every scrap of information they can. We spent the rest of the day snorkeling, kayaking and hiking while waiting for the winds to die down. Day 4 (24 49.255N, 110 34.377W) Luck has turned the weather in our favor. With mild winds and little chop, we point our bow toward Isla San Francisco and a popular large white sand beach with good anchorage averaging 3 fathoms in depth. While the other guests turn their attention to kayaking and hiking, I take advantage of the improved water clarity to snorkel along the rocky southern tip of the curved beach. I soon find myself in what appears to be an endless school of squid, and my thoughts turn to the various predators that could close in. Nearer to shore, I approached an area populated by sand eels. They stick most of their bodies into the sandy bottom, appearing like a crop of branchless sticks. Soon they sense the vibrations created by my fins and quickly disappear into their sandy dens. Everywhere I look are puffer fish. I seem to have stumbled onto a nursery. We took the dinghy over to the nearby fishing village of El Coyote, population six. It is located among one of two sets of small islets on the northern side of Isla San Francisco. On the way, we passed a group of pearl divers; pearl harvesting was once a thriving local industry and is described in Steinbeck’s moralistic tale “The Pearl.” Upon approaching the small and rocky beach, we were guided to a safe landing by an elderly fisherman. Others were salting the day’s catch of small “angel sharks” for later sale in La Paz. As we entered the small encampment, we soon noticed the bleached backbones of two whales. The bone segments had been patiently assembled and were held together by ropes, possibly for the benefit of tourists. There are few visitors, but among them is the occasional marine biology student from La Paz University conducting research. A small government-supplied solar panel provides some electricity to residents. What we thought was a chapel turned out to be a small mausoleum for an infant. It is hard to imagine a new generation populating this camp. We purchased a number of overpriced handmade seashell trinkets and were gratified by the sellers’ happy smiles. That evening we took in another glorious sunset and the sight of bat rays feeding on squid. Day 5 (24 33.80N, 110 24.942W) We chose to spend our last day of exploration at Isla Partida’s Ensenada Grande anchorage with an intermediate stop at Los Islotes for a swim with the sea lions. This is a popular activity that can be arranged through several tour agencies in La Paz. The wind had picked up overnight to 14 to 18 knots, and the forecast for the following day promised poor weather. By the time we reached Los Islotes, the chop had made it unsafe to swim, so we occupied ourselves by taking photographs and videos of the local marine life. Ensenada Grande is a deep and narrow cove, perhaps a half-mile wide at its entrance and 1 1/2 miles deep. It affords excellent anchorage (sand bottom, various depths) and protection from north and south winds. It has several sandy beaches separated by steep rocky cliffs. There are some rain-fed ponds that hold water until late spring when the heat finally evaporates all traces of humidity. I decided to explore the shoreline by snorkeling and was rewarded with the sight of some colorful fish. Some of the guests who took out kayaks came across a cave holding Indian artifacts, including what appeared to be a large grinding stone. Photos were taken and all the items were left behind, undisturbed. The next day’s forecast called for 6-foot chop and wind gusts of up to 35 knots. Our crew considered spending the night in La Paz to avoid the hazard of navigating the narrow and shallow channel entrance, as well as the peril of the tight docking quarters. Day 6 (La Paz) Sadly, it was time to head back. By 10 a.m., we were on our way. I was grateful to not have the responsibility of steering La Paz’s narrow and shallow entrance. Our captain made it look easy. With some help from the shore crew and after a few starboard shoves from our dinghy, we docked safely at Marina La Paz. Even in fair weather, La Paz Harbor presents many challenges, so the uninitiated should take care to prepare thoroughly in advance for this undertaking. Better yet, let a seasoned veteran take the wheel. Beyond La Paz and Loreto/Puerto Escondido, I noticed little difference from most of the physical descriptions in Steinbeck’s account of the harbors and islands. The region remains ruggedly beautiful, largely unspoiled and unexplored. The most notable changes in village life are the use of outboard motors for fishing pangas, some cinderblock buildings and private generators.