Article# 3 - Zihuatanejo on the Go: The colorful cruising port of Zihuatanejo has something legendary for every kind of boater – from fishing and diving to feasting ashore and hunting for a goddess. As legends go, Zihuatanejo (pronounced “zee-what-ah-NAY-ho”) is fairly young – having gained its worldwide fame in only the last 40 years. That’s when the first road was carved through the jungle-clad coastline from bustling Acapulco, 110 miles to the south. During the previous 400 years, the small but nearly landlocked Bahia Zihuatanejo was claimed by various bands of pirates. Pirates Anchoring inside the bay or hiding behind Roca Negra, these pirate ships laid in wait to ambush the richly laden merchantmen or Spanish gold ships that frequently passed to and from Acapulco. The crafty pirates of Zihuatanejo made use of lookout posts atop Cerro Gatas and on the tip of Punta Garrobo, where the primary lighthouse stands today. The lookout posts gave them an unobstructed view down to Punta Potosi, 11 miles southeast, and up to Punta Ixtapa, 7 miles northwest. You’d think all the sunken ships or buried pirate booty would have captured the public’s imagination, but the most lasting legend within the boating community comes down from the ancient Aztecs’ belief in goddesses – and more than a few modern bachelor boaters have been lured here by that sexy notion. Goddesses For the record, the Aztecs who taxed this region called it “Cihuatlan” from two Nahuatl words meaning “place of the women” – referring to the mystical “Cihuateteo” or “goddesses” who had died in childbirth and presumably gained their western paradise at this lovely little bay on the western coastline. The Spanish conquerors later added the diminutive ending “nejo,” denoting the smallness of the bay. In fact, some lovely modern bachelorettes have likewise been attracted to Zihuatanejo and its neighboring Ixtapa, enjoying the posh resorts, the vast stretches of powder white beaches and the dazzling night life. Bachelor cruisers often call these two cruising ports “See-what” and “Stoppa,” because they come to see what they can find, and then they “stoppa” while in pursuit. Fishing and Diving When not tracking down a goddess (or visiting the archaeological museum), what’s a boater to do in Zihuatanejo? Did I mention the fishing and diving? Sailfish are the hottest year-round sportfishing attraction, in the waters west of the Islas Blancas and southeast of Roca Negra. For the dinner table, there’s a plenitude of dorado or mahi-mahi, various kinds of sea bass and red snapper in the coastal shelves. Spring through fall, there are tuna and marlin not far offshore. Several dozen hotel boats ply these waters throughout the year, and visiting long-range sportfishers and cruising yachts come down in winter and spring. Late summer and early fall months are precarious for boaters visiting from afar, because Bahia Zihuatanejo is open to the southwest and subject to the close-out swells of tropical storms. Zihuatanejo and neighboring Ixtapa are rated among the top 10 places in Mexico for scuba and snorkel diving. The water is warm all year, and visibility is normally at its best from November (after the last tropical storm) until June (before the rainy season starts again). From Isla Grande to Rocas Potosi, this region has about 30 small coastal islands. The 20-mile-long zigzagging coastline is studded with coral reefs, ledges and rock piles, providing a home for a colorful variety of tropical fish and aquatic plants. Scuba divers and snorkelers have an almost endless range of environments. Zihuatanejo Scuba Center is the largest dive shop in town, providing air, gear, guides and boats. Another dive shop is located at Puerto Mio. Boating Facilities Marina Puerto Mio, Zihuatanejo’s only marina, lies just to port as you enter Bahia Zihuatanejo. Puerto Mio has only 15 full-service slips for visiting yachts, so it’s often filled up during winter cruising season. It would be wise to call ahead for a reservation. From stateside, call toll free; (888) 633-3295, or inside Mexico, call 755-42748. The marina manager is L. David Lent, and the marina can be contacted on VHF Channel 11. A small hotel and a fine little restaurant called La Cala are part of Marina Puerto Mio’s main building. From the marina, you have a nice view of the municipal pier, the anchorage, and the whole bay surrounded by forested hills. From the restaurant, you can see into the tiny cove (called La Cala) and out to sea. Marina Puerto Mio also has the only fuel dock for yachts between Manzanillo and Acapulco. Located just west of the slips, it’s a floating wooden side-tie dock about 80 feet long. For larger quantities of diesel fuel, you may need to order the day before you want to refuel. Outside Zihuatanejo, the only other slips are at Marina Ixtapa, which has about 500 full-service slips inside its own man-made harbor about 8 miles up the coast. My GPS approach waypoint for Marina Ixtapa is 17 degrees, 39.7 minutes north latitude; 101 degrees, 37.2 minutes west longitude. The jetty entrance is on the west end of Ixtapa’s long white beach. Once you enter the channel, bear to the right. The yacht basin is surrounded by villas and resort shops. By road, the entrance is lined with high-rise hotels and dance clubs. This may be where the goddess legends got started. For more information on Marina Ixtapa, call (01152) 755-32180. Boaters who anchor out will find plenty of swinging room in Zihuatanejo Bay. Ranking them in order of overall quietude, the best anchorage is off the beach in the north end of the bay, then off the point opposite Puerto Mio, then just north of the municipal pier. Depths range from 20 to 30 feet, and the bottom offers good holding ability. The exception is off pretty little Playa Gatas, the small cove in the southeast corner of the outer bay, because it’s foul ground except for kayaks. The black-and-white striped municipal pier at the west side of the bay is reserved for the local fishing pangas and excursion boats that pick up and drop off their paying passengers, guests at the town’s 40 some hotels. We tried landing our guests on the concrete steps once, but after being shouted at by several pangueros, we never tried it again. Most dinghies land on the gently sloping beach in the lee north of the municipal pier. Occasionally, one of the many beach cafes and bars sets out a raft and a rickety walkway to entice customers. I’d rather roll up my cuffs and take my chances on the sand. The port captain’s office and a navy base occupy the buildings at the head of the pier. Feasting Here Along the beach north of the pier, you’ll find a dozen restaurants, from fine seafood and Italian bistros, to taco stands with fresh dorado and roasted corn. We also found three or four nice beach restaurants at Playa la Ropa on the other side of the bay, and these seem to cater more to visiting boaters. Almost any restaurant in town will gladly prepare your day’s catch for your evening meal. Getting Here If you’re running down the coast from Manzanillo, Zihuatanejo is about 190 nautical miles away. En route, there are marginal anchorages at Cabeza Negra, Muruata, Lizardo, Caleta de Campos (Buffadero Bluff), and Isla Grande. You’ll find no services at any of these anchorages. Of the lot, I like Caleta de Campos best. The commercial port of Lazaro Cardenas has nothing to offer for yachts, and they do not encourage pleasureboats to stop. If you’re coming 110 nautical miles up from Acapulco, only the tiny fishing port at Papanoa and the marginal anchorage at Rocas Potosi break the homogenous stretch of sandy beach, coconut plantations and regular shoreline. It’s possible to anchor inside Papanoa’s outer breakwater, but refueling is difficult to arrange. The Sierra Madre mountains rise close to the coastline behind Zihuatanejo, making for a picturesque approach by land, air or sea. My GPS approach waypoint (17 degrees, 37 minutes north latitude; 101 degrees, 34 minutes west longitude) lies just north of Roca Negra but still outside the bay known as Zihuatanejo – the place of the goddesses.